For many Ashkenazic Jews, stuffed cabbage in sweet-and sour sauce is essential for Sukkot. It is just one of the many dishes
that were developed in the shetls of Eastern and Central Europe to transform an ordinarily mundane ingredient, such as cabbage,
into a rich-tasting delicacy. At the same time, precious meat was stretched to server a few more.
This dish probably became traditional for Sukkot because cabbage is plentiful during the harvest season, and also stuffed
foods are customarily eaten on the holiday to symbolize abundance.
Depending on the local where they or their ancestors once lived, Jews have given stuffed cabbage many different appellations.
Some of the more popular Ashkenazic ones include holishkes, bolopches, praakes, and galuptze. Sephardic Jews make a very similar
type of stuffed cabbage, occasionally using ground lamb instead of beef. Those from Turkey and nearby areas generally call
the dish dolmas de col or yaprakis de kol. Middle Eastern Jews spice it differently, and sometimes call it sarmas or mishi
malfouf.
As with many other Jewish recipes that have been carried around the world, stuffed cabbage has innumerable variations.
For a delicious, satisfying taste, I have added a few innovative ingredients, such as applesauce and mustard powder, to the
following basically Ashkenazic version.
1 large head (about 2 pounds) white or savory cabbage (see note)
SAUCE
3 cups plain tomato sauce (3 8-ounce cans)
1/3 cup applesauce
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 to 3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon powdered mustard
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup dark raisins (optional)
FILLING
1 pound very lean ground beef
2 small onion, grated
1/2 cup long-grain white rice
1/4 cup applesauce
A large egg
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper, preferably freshly ground
Pinch of ground allspice (optional)
Remove and discard the core and any discolored leaves from the cabbage. Very carefully peel off about 15 whole outer
leaves, (The exact number needed will depend on their size.) If the leaves will not come off, cut away the core of the cabbage
and parboil the entire head in a large pot of water for about 10 minutes, or until the leaves can be loosened. To soften the
separated leaves so they can be easily rolled, put them into a pot of boiling water and simmer them for about 5 minutes, or
until they are translucent and very flexible. Cut away any very thick, tough ribs from the base of each leaf.
For the sauce, combine all the ingredients in a very large deep skillet, an electric frying pan, or a Dutch over. Bring
to a simmer over medium high heat; then lower the heat, cover, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling and stuff the cabbage. For the filling, mix together all the ingredients using your hand
or a fork until they are well combined and smooth. To stuff the cabbage, put a spoonful of the filling in the center of a
leaf (the exact amount depends on the size of the leaf). Fold up the edge of the leaf which was nearest the core; then fold
in the sides and roll up the leaf to enclose the filling. Put the roll, seam side down, into the simmering sauce. Continue
until all the filling is used. Try to arrange the cabbage rolls in one layer in the pan.
Spoon some sauce over any rolls that are not already covered with it, and cover the pan. Simmer the rolls, basting them
occasionally, for 60 to 75 minutes, or until the meat and rice in the filling are cooked through and the sauce is thick. If
the sauce gets too thick during the cooking period, add a little water to the pan.
Stuffed cabbage can be made ahead and reheated; it has a deserved reputation for being even better the next day. It can
also be frozen.
NOTE: If time allows, white cabbage may be softened by freezing it for 2 to 3 days, and then defrosting it in the refrigerator
overnight. Parboiling the leaves, as directed above, is not then necessary.
Makes 5 to 6 servings
